(10/17/05)
Websites for gear:
|
Merchandise Stores |
Comments |
|
Eastern
Mountain Sports: |
§
Framingham, Boston, good selection and prices, helpful staff |
|
Recreational
Equipment Inc.: |
§
Framingham, Boston, good selection and prices, helpful staff |
|
Catalog-based – Campmor: |
§
Catalog, with on-line store, good prices, but you must be familiar
with every item to insure accuracy |
|
Bob
Smith’s Wilderness House (Boston): www.wildernesshouseboston.com |
§
Exotic selections, excellent quality gear, expensive |
|
Hilton’s
Tent City (Boston): www.hiltonstentcity.com |
§
Wide supply with some cost reductions |
|
LL
Bean: |
§
Catalog, on-line, and stores. Good quality, but not fully geared
toward light weight backpacking |
|
Mountain Gear: |
§
On-line store, probably for the more adventurous |
Specific Equipment Companies |
|
|
Kelty:
www.kelty.com Mountain
Hardware: www.mountainhardwear.com
Black
Diamond: www.mgear.com North
face: www.thenorthface.com |
This
section will be filled out |
Packs:
§
3,000
cu inches or larger
§
Sized
by torso length (length from the top of hip bones to correct shoulder strap
location) and cubic inches of the bag.
§
External frame packs are more versatile and recommended for boys
younger than 13 yrs and < 5’8” tall). This type
of pack will have about a 2,000 cu. in. bag with a frame length allowing the
attachment of sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and a tent.
[ www.kelty.com/Kelty/index.cfm?fuseaction=Packs.Home
]
§
Kelty
makes the better external frame packs – purchase the largest, adjustable frame that
fits the scout, but will allow room for growth through the next few years.
§
Internal
frame packs can be adequate in size and can be fitted correctly for older boys
(>13yrs).
§
External
zippered side pockets are helpful
§
External
pouches that will hold a 1L water bottle are a necessity
§
Internal
frames are more expensive, but many good brands are at EMS, REI, LL Bean, Bob
Smith’s. Catalog shopping is difficult
unless you have tested the actual model and brand
Sleeping Bags:
§
The
temperature ratings are not standardized or regulated. The better-made bags do better are
justifying their temp rating. (This means it is likely that an inexpensive bag
rated at 30F will be more like 45F)
§
Bags
are selected for their insulation, weight, and outer shell material.
§
Most boys should have a 0oF bag, of Polarguard III®
insulation, in regular length. The outer
shell does not have to be waterproof, a durable taffeta or nylon should be
adequate. (actually, I recommend it not be waterproof). This bag would be of
average weight for a good fall and spring bag.
Inserting a summer sleeping bag into this one will create a warm full
winter sleeping system.
§
Down
Sleeping bags offer the greatest insulation for their weight, are very durable
(can last a lifetime), but do not insulate at all if they get wet. Because their warmth drops significantly
when they get wet, they are not recommended for younger, in-experienced scouts.
Tents:
§
There
is a wide range of sizes and features in available tents.
§
Tents
are rated 2-season, 3-season, and 4-season.
Unless the owner does camping in the wilderness all 4 seasons, a
4-season tent is too heavy and not needed (it’s overkill and heavy)
§
A desired tent should be a 2-man, 3-season, with a vestibule (>7sq.
ft.), and weigh no more than 6 ˝ lbs
§
Front
entrance is more desirable than side-entrance- items in the tent stay drier
when entering the tent during rain.
§
The
Troop has a number of 2-man and 3-man tents, so it is not necessary that scouts
purchase a tent
Helpful Websites:
Bob’ Backpacking Tips: http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/r/p/rpc1/bbb/
The Lightweight Backpacker: http://www.backpacking.net/
Backpacker Magazine: www.backpacker.com
The choices and selection in hiking and camping
clothing is quite mind-boggling with price ranges to match. In spite of this wide array, there is a
basic principle of “layering” that has been proven to work in the
conditions that scouts will be in. Layering
works because multiple layers of clothes insulate better than 1 bulky layer,
and layers can be removed or added depending on the current weather
conditions. Garments used as inner
layers (polypropylene underwear) and mid-layers (fleece jackets, down jackets,
etc) serve to insulate, while outer layers (nylon or Gortex® windbreakers,
breathable raingear, etc) serve to protect you from wind, rain, and snow. These all combine to keep you warm and dry.
Insulating underwear:
§
This layer cannot be cotton
§
These
are close-fitting layers that provide the first layer of warmth. They are usually made form the following
materials:
Polypropylene
(most expensive)
Polypropylene,
and polyester blends
Lightweight
Fleece (polyester) (least expensive)
§
This
layer will dry quickly if it gets wet, and dries quickly having perspired in it
thru the day.
Mid-layer Insulation:
§
Most popular layers are fleece (Polartec®), but can be wool or similar
– they should no be cotton
§
They
are usually jackets, pullovers, sweater-like and should have some pockets, a
full collar, and you may wish to have a hood.
§
This
layer provides the majority of your warm
§
If
more insulation is needed you can add a second fleece layer, or add a layer
with Down insulation
§
What
works for the upper body with jackets, works just as well with your legs via
fleece pants.
§
Most popular layer is a Gortex® jacket. Unfortunately
it is also very expensive.
§
Gortex®
is a multi-layered membrane that provides wind resistance, adequate rain
protection, and breathes so that you don’t saturate your inner layers while
wearing it.
§
Gortex®
is challenged by 2 things – heavy driving rains, and cold temperatures. The membrane will not keep out heavy rain
and it tends to “seal up” in cold temperatures (-5F)
§
Nylon
jackets are an excellent windbreaker and are not expensive – note that they do
not offer much waterproofing in rain or wet snow.
§
In
cold temperatures, Nylon is the preferred windbreaker, as it will breath at
lower temperatures, compared to Gortex®.
§
Coated
(sealed) Nylon jackets, or other sealed, waterproof materials will keep rain
and snow off, but it will not breath and you’ll perspire and soak your inner
layers, resulting in significantly lower warmth.
The 3 layers outlined above apply to keeping your
body, legs, head and hands warm and dry.
Footwear is covered below.
Hiking Footwear and Socks:
§
There are no “most popular” hiking boots. Boots
must fit your feet comfortably while allowing for 2 layers of non-cotton socks.
§
Boots
fall into about 5 categories: hiking shoes (sneaker-light), lightweight hiking,
medium weight backpacking, heavy-duty backpacking, mountaineering boots (for
when you do Mt Everest). Backpacking boots are stiffer, possess aggressive
treads for traction, accept crampons, and tolerate wetter and snowier
conditions.
§
Growing
scouts may use a pair of boots 3-4 times before outgrowing them, and they are
rather expensive. It is not necessary
to buy your scout heavy-duty boots, as they are generally carrying lighter
loads in their backpacks. That means
they should provide reasonable support to mid-ankle, possess a “deep-cleated”
tread for traction, and offer reasonable flex for comfort. Older scouts will use the boots longer and
be carrying heavier loads, so they should have medium weight to heavier-duty
backpacking boots.
§
I’ve
seen where leather boots hold up better, especially in wet conditions and
snow. I haven’t found where boots with
Gortex® liners, or ventilation “patches” are cooler or more comfortable. Leather boots can be waterproofed, while the
Gortex® and fabric boots cannot. Many
backpacking articles, from prominent outdoorsman, write that “keeping your feet
dry, warm, and blister-free” is one of the most important ways to be
comfortable and have fun in the outdoors.
§
At
least a medium or heavy-weight boot is needed for use with crampons
§
I
do not recommend using leather work-boots as backpacking boots.
§
Layering
with socks keeps feet comfortable and can decrease the incidence of blisters.
§
The
inner layer is a close-fitting liner of a non-cotton material. A polyester material are fine. The close fit means it will not slide
against the skin and will offer a “barrier” between the boot, out socks and
skin.
§
The
second layer is a thick polypropylene, or wool, or blend (SmartWool®) sock for
comfort, cushion, and warmth.
Headlamps & Flashlights:
§
When
camping or hiking, most people need to be using both their hands and cannot be
holding a flashlight while attempting to complete tasks. Therefore, a headlamp is the only way to
go. The newest of LED lamps provide a
lot of light, use small batteries that last for >50 hours, are lightweight,
and not expensive. I prefer those headlamps
that offer 2 levels of lighting.
§
Generally,
the smallest lamps provide the lowest lighting levels but are very lightweight,
while the largest provide the most lighting levels, but are heavy.
§
Lightweight
flashlights are available that use AA batteries and provide good light. I bring a small one as a back-up
§
Flashlights
that use C or D batteries are too big, too heavy, and are not practical for
hiking given the choices referenced above.
§
Princeton
TEC and Petzel seem to offer the widest selection of lamps, etc. REI, and EMS have their full range
Other topics will be added:
If you would like to share your experience and
knowledge of outdoor gear, just call or e-mail Kevin Heath (kevinheath@comcast.net)